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Mardi Gras Southern Food Party 2010

Remainder of the Pretender-to-the-Throne CakeSo this past weekend I had myself a little Mardi Gras party. It was a chance to cook a bunch of Southern and Southern-ish food and then have some friends come over and eat it. 

I’m not exactly sure when I got the bee in my bonnet to have a Mardi Gras party, but I think it was when I was sitting at the Kingfish Café with Rachel and Jason on their most recent Seattle trip in early January.  The Kingfish is a popular Seattle restaurant that serves Southern-influenced food, and my visit with Rachel and Jason was my third time there.

Until recently, despite all my cooking curiosity, I’d never really cared about Southern food.  I didn’t know much about it, and what I did know didn’t seem interesting to me. Baby didn't really get into the spirit.Then back when I was at the cooking school, I worked a class once with the chef of Kingfish, Kenyatta Carter.  Her food was not what I was expecting. I guess I’d always thought that Southern food would be heavy, gloppy, fatty. But Kenyatta’s food was so delicious, fresh, bright and flavorful.  I realized my ideas about Southern cooking might be off, and my curiosity was piqued.

It took me a while, but again, I think it was this last trip to Kingfish was the one that finally made me think, “Hey, I’d like to cook some of this stuff.”  Mardi Gras was coming up, it seemed a perfect time to have a party. 

This was party planning on a budget, and I think I want to do a few entries on the mechanics of that, but in the meantime, wanted to get up a post with the dishes I made in case anyone is looking for some fun Mardi Gras recipes to celebrate with this week.  I have to say I was really happy with almost all of the stuff I made, and think some of these recipes are tasty enough to make on a regular basis.

Here are two of the books I got from the library and used a lot for this.

I highly recommend them both. Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches has a lot of interesting little tidbits about Southern cooking and culture. Frank Stitt’s Southern Cooking is more focused on a refined version of Southern flavors, and has a lot of beautiful-looking dishes. I didn’t get to make all the things I wanted to make from them, and think they are definitely worth a look if you are interested in Southern cooking. 

And this book - DamGoodSweet - about New Orleans desserts came in on my library hold list too late to make it into the mix, but definitely looking at some recipes in it for the future.  Some of the author's recipes are featured on Epicurious right now, but there are more in the book that look intriguing. Like...Cane Syrup Ice Cream, Brandy Milk Punch Ice Cream, Lemon-Herbsaint Poppers, Sweet Corn Cake and Root Beer Syrup…crap, I might need to have another Southern food party sooner than next year's Mardi Gras.

But first, a look back and some good recipes to try if you are cooking for Mardi Gras. Here’s what was on the menu (the little icon means it’s an offsite recipe); I can genuinely recommend all these recipes. Even the ones that didn't blow my mind were solid:

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Appetizer/Hors D'Oeuvres Recipes

Pickled Shrimp stagesFrank Stitt’s Pickled Shrimp - These were nice, with the pickle adding a bright, lemony flavor. I think the recipe as written might be a little underseasoned for my palate. If you're accustomed to or like a little more pop, I'd add a smidge more salt.

Muffuletta Olive Spread w/Toast - This little bite was just an "extra" for me, an easy way to incorporate another NOLA food, but I wasn't expecting much. But it was a little overachiever that exceeded those expectations nicely.

Chipotle Cashews - Yes, the same nuts I'm always exclaiming about.

Frank Stitt’s Spiced Pecans - But omg there's been a coup and these have possibly usurped the top nut spot in my roster of recipes.

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Entrees

Gumbo Z’Herbes – I really liked this dish, a rich stewy thing full of greens. It might not be what one expects from a Roux development for the Gumbo gumbo as it was a special kind made during Lent and was originally (and in the version I made) meatless. Despite that, it’s exceptionally satisfying and flavorful.  I used my Roasted Vegetable Stock and made the Chow.com Cajun Seasoning listed in the recipe. Here’s a bit of interesting folklore about this dish from Grist: “Some say the dish should be made with at least seven greens. Others say as many as fifteen, but definitely an odd number for good luck. Most agree the more greens, the merrier, because for every green that cooks put into the gumbo, they’ll make a new friend that year.”

Etta's Cornbread Pudding stagesEtta’s Cornbread Pudding - I don't know if this is remotely Southern, but oh well. I'd made it before and liked it. I do feel like the cornbread was almost a little too sweet, so next time I might add less honey to it and a little more salt and pepper to the custard.

Mirilton Ettouffee - Tasty AND I learned what a mirliton is.

Perfect Rice - I used this for serving with both the militons and the gumbo. I prefer brown rice - even if it's not really traditional - and enjoyed this recipe made with brown basmati rice. I also used Roasted Vegetable Stock for this.

Creole Deviled New Potatoes - Very very tasty and a surprise hit. Uses Maison Louisiana Creole Mustard that is a delicious new foodstuff I learned about through this party.

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Desserts & Drinks

Ice cream trio

Sweet Potato Ice Cream with Praline Pieces - My sweet potato aversion made me initially not care for this, but upon a second tasting, I liked it better. Even for a sweet potato dish. Sweet potato fans seemed to like it without reservation.

Bourbon Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with Chocolate Chunks - My new go-to ice cream.

Chicory Coffee Ice Cream - I accidentally made this with regular chicory coffee instead of instant. It still tasted good, but not as intensely coffee-flavored. However, if that's all you can find, I'd say make it anyway and maybe add some chopped very dark chocolate or even chocolate-covered espresso beans to add that hint of pleasant bitterness to offset the sweet one wants in a coffee ice cream.

Hurricane Punch - I just made this virgin and left the rum out for folks to add. It was nice, although it was definitely more about following the New Orleans theme than necessarily being that mind-blowing of a cocktail.

Also, John and Patricia Eddy of Cook Local & Seasonal Cornucopia were kind enough to stop by and brought a delicious Bread Pudding with Grand Marnier Sauce that would be a hit with any menu. In what was either a happy coincidence or their own contribution to the Southern theme (I forgot to ask), they used Black Arkansas apples, an apple called for in another recipe from the Frank Stitt book that I'd intended to make but ran out of time.  The bread pudding was wonderful, so check it out on their site too.

(And as you might have guess if you know anything about King Cake, that picture up there is a FAR from authentic King Cake. I was going to make this Chow.com recipe, but ran out of time. Instead I made a cake from a box, stuck some babies in it and some Mardi Gras colors on top of it and called it a day. Even I have my limits.)

Mardi Gras Party: Sweet Potato Ice Cream with Praline Pieces

So I think I've told the story before about how I hated yams and sweet potatoes so much as a kid, I got a note from my parents to let me get out of making them for the Thanksgiving dinner final in Home Ec.

Well, not a lot has changed, but upon a second tasting, I will grudgingly call this tasty. As my friend Carolyn put it, the praline pieces make it.  Also in its favor, this is a pretty easy recipe in that you get a rich ice cream without having to deal with making an egg custard.

In the original recipe in Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches, the author notes to be sure you get a mature sweet potato because an immature one can seize up during freezing.  I just got a big giant one and crossed my fingers. 

Also be sure potatoes are smooth and free of lumps before adding cream in order to afford overbeating cream.

Sweet Potato Ice Cream

Adapted from Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches

Makes 1 quart

Ingredients

• ½ lb sweet potatoes, scrubbed and dried, with any root tendrils removed
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1.5 cups half-and-half
• ½ cup heavy cream (minimum 36% milkfat)
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Pinch of grated nutmeg
• Pinch of cinnamon
• 1 cup chopped New Orleans Pecan Praline Pieces

Directions

1. Position rack in center of oven, preheat to 400.
2. Pierce the potato in several spot, the place on a baking sheet in the center of the oven.
3. Bake until potatoes are tender and easily pierced, about 45 minutes.
4. Cool until you can handle the potato but it is still warm.  Peel and force the potato through a ricer or coarse sieve until you have about ½ cup of puree.
5. Stir sugar into puree until it is dissolved, then let mixture cool completely.
6. Gradually add half and half and then cream, stirring well after each addition until it is smooth and the consistency of a custard.
7. Add lemon zest, nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir well, and put into the fridge overnight.
8. Freeze according to directions on your ice cream maker, adding the praline pieces when it tells you to add mix-ins.

Mardi Gras Party: Bourbon Vanilla Bean Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

I made this for the first time on Thanksgiving and now just pretty much make it for any occasion. It's awesome.

Bourbon Vanilla Bean Chocolate Chip Ice Cream

Adapted from Rum Ice Cream from Chez Panisse Desserts by Lindsey Remolif Shere; this recipe was sent my way by Traca Savadago of Seattle Tall Poppy

Makes 1 quart

Ingredients

• 1 cup milk
• 2 cups whipping cream
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 6 egg yolks
• 1/4 cup bourbon
• 1 vanilla bean, split
• 1/3-1/2 c chocolate chunks

Directions

1. Place the milk, cream, and sugar in a non-corrosive saucepan. Scrape the insides of the vanilla bean into the mixture, then add the bean to the milk mixture.  Heat over medium heat until hot.
2. Whisk the egg yolks just enough to mix them and whisk in some of the hot mixture. Return to the pan and cook over low heat, stirring contstantly, until the mixture coats the spoon. Strain into a container and chill overnight.
3. Remove the vanilla bean, add the bourbon, taste, and add a little more if necessary. Freeze according to the instructions with your ice cream maker.  Add chocolate chunks during last five minutes of churning or whenever your maker’s instructions indicate you should add mix-ins.

Mardi Gras Party: Creole Deviled New Potatoes

The book Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches note that the possibly apocryphal story behind these potatoes is that they were first made by an angry wife to punish her carousing husband.  She dumped a lot of the spicy mustard and cayenne on them, but he liked the spice and a new dish was born.

The original recipe called for also more cayenne. Because there were younguns at the party, I skipped it, but if you like spice, it would be delicious with a pinch of that too.

Creole Deviled New Potatoes

Adapted from Beans, Green and Sweet Georgia Peaches

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 2 lbs very small new potatoes, washed and scrubbed (I got the tiny ones that they currently have at Trader Joes)
• 8 Tbl unsalted butter, softened
• 2 Tbl Creole Mustard (Maison Louisana is very good)
• 2 Tbl chopped parsley
• Salt and pepper

Directions

1. Fill a large pot with enough water to hold the potatoes comfortably, add a generous pinch of salt and place over high heat. 
2. When the water comes to a rapid boil, add the potatoes.  Cover and let return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 20-30 minutes.
3. Drain well and let the potatoes cool and dry.  Dry out the pot.
4. Mix 2 Tbls of the butter with the mustard until blended and set aside.
5. Put the pot over medium heat and add remaining butter.  When melted, add the potatoes, another pinch of salt and some pepper, and shake the pan or stir the potatoes well to coat with butter.  Saute until the potatoes are browned.
6. Add the butter-mustard mixture and sauté until the potatoes are coated and the mixture browns.
7. Remove from heat and stir in parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning.  Serve hot or warm.

Mardi Gras Party: Mirlitons Etouffees or Smothered Mirlitons, Creole Style

I had seen the chayote or vegetable pears for years in the Southwest or in relation to Mexican cooking. I had no idea that they were also used in Southern cooking, where they’re called mirlitons. 

(I also saw them on a recent trip to an Indian grocery store with Karuna Ram, where we were shooting a grocery store photo essay.  So they are apparently used in Indian cooking as well, and who knows what else? Chayote: They Get Around.)

This was my first time cooking with this particular piece of produce, and I like it in this dish. I don’t know quite how to describe the chayote flavor and texture. It’s like almost the crispness of an apple but with a little bit of the give of a cucumber. It’s got a mild flavor but there is a slight bright tanginess that saves it from being bland.

In this, with the tomatoes, it makes an all-around tangy and satisfying vegetable dish, kind of as if a mild salsa was transformed into an entrée. Nice over rice, but also good as a side.

Mirlitons Etouffees or Smothered Mirlitons, Creole Style

Adapted from Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 5 medium mirlitons (aka chayote or vegetable pears), peeled, seeded and diced
• ¼ c EVOO
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 3 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2 Tbl chopped parsley
• 2 Tbl chopped thyme
• 2 large bay leaf
• 1 c dry white wine
• 1 28-oz can of tomatoes
• 1 Tbl of Cajun seasoning

Directions

1. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large lidded skillet or saucepan. Add the onion and sauté until the onion has lost raw smell and is translucent.
2. Add the mirlitons and garlic, and sauté for about a minute or until the garlic is fragrant.
3. Add the parsley, thyme, bay leaf and wine, and let come to a boil.
4. Add the tomatoes and Cajun seasoning. Stir, and lower heat. Simmer until mirlitons are tender, about a half hour, tasting and adjusting seasoning as you go.

Mardi Gras Party: Frank Stitt's Spiced Pecans

These were another popular dish from the Mardi Gras party.  Even, dare I say it, more popular that those Chipotle Nuts I'm always crowing about.

The recipe comes from the Frank Stitt's Southern Table book. My version of the recipe is actually based off a typo - I accidentally switched the quantities of the rosemary and brown sugar when I was typing up the recipe - but I like it so much as is, I'm sticking with the mistake.

Spiced Pecans

Adapted from Frank Stitt’s Southern Table

Makes 4 cups 

Ingredients

• 1 lb. pecan halves
• 1.5 tsp Kosher salt
• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
• 1 heaping Tbl dark brown sugar
• 1 heaping tsp freshly minced rosemary leaves
• 1 Tbl melted butter
• 2 Tbl olive oil

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 and place pecans on a rimmed baking sheet.
2. Bake for 15 minutes.
3. Remove from oven. Toss pecans with all the other ingredients until well coated. The sugar tends to clump up so be sure to break those up.
4. Bake pecans for another 2-3 minutes, only until toasted and fragrant. Don’t overcook.