Botana de Papas Locas aka “Crazy Potato Snack” with Pineapple Vinegar

Okay, so as my friend Carolyn noted, this dish doesn’t look especially appetizing. And to be honest, I mainly made it in the first place because of the funny name. But I made it a second time because, as Carolyn also noted after her first comment, it’s delicious!

The recipe calls for mild vinegar. Since the recipe comes from Diana Kennedy’s My Mexico, which is the first place I heard of pineapple vinegar, I decided to make it with that.

I’ve used both homemade and storebought pineapple vinegar. The homemade is pretty simple to make, recipe here. It’s tangy and spicy. The great thing about it is it actually uses the rind of the pineapple. So if you are making something else with a whole pineapple, you can first wring a little extra life out of the rinds before composting or tossing.

My friend Sarah and I went on a big long quest for pineapple vinegar once, to no avail. Then she spotted this brand in a Seattle Safeway. Here’s a Chowhound post about it in case you want to try to track it down where you live.

If you can’t find either, just use any mild vinegar without too strong of a flavor. The storebought kind has 4.3% acidity, equivalent to a mild white rice vinegar.

One thing I would not substitute is any other chile powder for the chile de arbol as its flavor really elevates the dish. I think most stores with a good Hispanic food section will have it with the other little packets of spices and chile powders.

Other than the potato boiling time, this is a fast dish to make. Diana Kennedy’s recipe recommends serving it with toothpicks as hors d’oeuvres, but it’s also delicious as a side dish for a Mexican entrée.

Botana de Papas Locas aka “Crazy Potato Snack”

Adapted from My Mexico by Diana Kennedy 

• 1 lb small new potatoes
• ¼ cup pineapple or other mild fruity vinegar
• 3 Tbls olive oil
• 2 medium white onions, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp chile de arbol
• 1 lime
• Salt to taste 

1. Put potatoes in large pot, cover with water, add vinegar and large pinch of salt. Bring to boil and cook cover over medium heat for about 20 minutes until just tender, then drain.
2. Heat the olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add potatoes and fry for about 5 minutes until lightly browned.
3. Add onions and chile powder and cook, stirring occasionally to preventing sticking and burning, until the onions have lost their raw smell, about 5-10 minutes.
4. Remove from heat, squeeze lime juice over it, salt to taste, and toss.

One Post, Two Topics: Coming Soon! And, Shopping Tips for Space Aliens

COMING SOON!

Today is the kind of day that makes me sad for those who don’t live in Seattle. For one, it was a gorgeous, sunny day, maybe a little cool, but that’s okay. For another, if you don’t live here, you have no reason to take advantage of my new site FreshPickedSeattle.com, which I am all proud-parenty about. (If you don’t live here, but are planning a trip, take a peek before you come as there’s fun to be had.)

One of the reasons I like cooking is the whole no-thought, actual Zen state you sink into after a while. Well, if cooking puts me into an actual Zen state, I think working on that site puts me into some kind of highly productive version of a k-hole or something.

So with all the new stuff I’ve been adding over there, that’s been taking up most of my working-on-the-web time of late, but I will be getting back here for some big additions soon.

If you’ve ever seen a post on this site and thought, Gee, I’d really like to try that recipe but am exhausted at the idea of scrolling down for 45 minutes until I get to it because she wrote like 10,000 words about that time she went to 7-11 and criminy this IS the web, hasn't she ever heard of tldnr? 

In answer to your question, yes, I am aware of all internet traditions, I just choose to be anachronistically lengthy. 

But I aim to please, so I will be extracting the recipes from the lengthy posts and putting them into their own Recipe archive and I'm also going to attempt to work out some kind of efficient categorization process.

Then that recipe archive will be assembled slowly into the Menu Ideas over there on the right, which I said were coming back on Jan 1, and it’s been weighing on my mind ever since.

So now that Top Chef is done, I’ve wrestled a bunch of hours each week back to myself and they will be spent over here soon.

SHOPPING TIPS FOR SPACE ALIENS

Secondly, as frequent readers might know, I tend to shorthand my special combination of culinarily-raised-by-wolves absence of food context and innate lack of common sense as being a "space alien."  You know, just tryin' to figure out what the heck you humans do about food and such.

In case you, too, might suffer from a context and common sense deficiency, or, perhaps, are in fact an actual space alien trying to pass, here’s a little tip for you next time you’re at the grocery store:

If there’s a batch of carbonated coffee soda you’ve never tried before in a “Good Buy” cart and the price has been knocked down to 25 cents, don’t buy it. And certainly don’t buy four different flavors, thinking, “What a bargain!”

It’s in the cart for a reason: the humans have vetted it for you. Mentally thank them and move on.

Getting to Know You: Pea Vines/Pea Shoots

I braved the heat yesterday and walked uphill both ways to the University District Farmers Market to fetch a veg to Get to Know.  I was hoping for bamboo shoots because they are supposed to be in season but there were none to be had.  Instead, I bought some pea vines.  I had previously used them in a Captain Ahab recipe, but I didn't really know them, per se.  What is their story?

About: Pea vines are the leaves, shoots, tendrils and sometimes flowers of young pea plants.  They are generally from snow peas, but can be from any type of garden pea.  They are popular in Shanghai and Vietnamese cooking, and are said to be a "expensive and highly esteemed leafy green favored by Chinese chefs."⁴

AKA: Pea vines, pea shoots, pea tendrils, Dua Mui, Dou Miao.  I have also seen the term "pea sprouts" used, although sometimes that seems to refer to actual sprouted peas.  Here's a note from the San Francisco Chronicle on the topic:

According to Charles Phan, owner of Slanted Door and Out the Door, pea sprouts are the new tender shoots of pea plants, while pea shoots refer to the more mature, but still tender shoots with its leaves and tendrils. The term "pea shoots" is often used interchangeably in Asian cuisine because they are the same plant, just in different stages of maturation.

Appearance: Pairs of oval-shaped leaves and curling tendrils on short stems.  They have a tendency to wilt because they are young plants without mature fiber.

(I believe these pea vines are a bit older hence the larger leaves and thicker stems.)

Taste:  Sweet with a delicate to strong pea flavor.

Growing Season/Area: There is some conflicting info here.  In Melissa's Great Book of Produce, the season is listed as year-round, and that might be for the whole U.S.  In a pamphlet provided by Washington State University, spring, early summer and fall are listed as the times for pea vines, noting that the season can be short since peas do not grow well when daytime temp is over 65 degrees.  Pea plants are apparently a good crop to plant as they are nitrogen fixing and beneficial to the soil.

Buying: Look for bright green, undamaged, fresh, not-wilted shoots.  Avoid yellowing, limp or tough shoots.  If you are feeling particularly bold, take a bite of of the shoot and tendrils to see if they are tough and stringy.⁶  When it comes to quantity, keep in mind that cooked pea vines reduce quite a bit.  If you are not serving raw, buy a quantity to serve as you would plan for serving cooked spinach, which reduces generally by at least half.⁷

Storing: While there is some disagreement among the various sources as to whether you can wait a day to eat your pea vines, the general consensus seems to be: eat them as soon as you can, preferably on the day you bought them.  You can possibly store until the next day, but you might be risking it.  Storage method recommendations vary: store in a plastic bag^1,8, store in paper towel in plastic bag^5,7, store loosely in a container³, or, winning points for most dramatic verb usage, Joy of Cooking exhorts you to "plunge the ends into a jar of water."  (Note to the other bug-o-phobes out there: my pea vines had a lot of little guys living in the leaves, so if you, like me, have a bit of an irrational skeeved reaction to that, you might want to choose the closed and contained method of storage.)

Preparation:  Trim away any large stems and rinse¹.  Do not rinse until you are ready to use.  Commonly used in stir-fries (cooks very quickly), raw in green salads and as a final addition to  soups and noodle dishes..

Pairs well with:  "Artichokes, chervil, chives, crab, lettuce, mint, salmon, scallinos, scallops, shad, sorrel, tarragon."¹

Substitutions: None listed although I assume some other young Asian greens like tatsoi and mizuna?

Nutrition:  Good source of Vitamin A, K and C.  Two cups have 132% RDA of Vit. K, 15% of Vit. A, and 35.5% of Vit. C.  Also has 10.5% RDA of Folate.  According to the WSU pamplet:

Pea shoots may also contain valuable phytochemicals. Certain pea plants have these natural disease fighters, but it is not known whether garden peas contain them. The phytochemicals found in other types of pea plants include lignins, a flavonoid called quercetin, and caffeic acid. Researchers believe these substances help prevent cancer in different ways and have other beneficial health effects.

Recipe ideas:

• Wilted Asian Greens
• Spring Vegetable Ragout
• Sauteed Pea Vines
• Pea Salad with Radishes and Feta Cheese
• Spring Stew with Fish or Shrimp
• Sesame Pea-Shoot Salad
• English Pea and Spring Herb Salad with Lemon-Yogurt Vinaigrette
• Cretan Mixed Greens and Tomatoes with Black-Eyed Peas
• Chicken/Tofu and Shiitake Stir-Fry with Peas and Pea Tendrils

PREVIOUSLY GOTTEN TO KNOW:

• Broccoli Rabe
• Sunburst Squash

_{^{Sources: 1. Field Guide to Produce by Aliza Green; 2. The Asian Grocery Store Demystified by Linda Bladholm; 3. Handy Pocket Guide to Asian Vegetables by Wendy Hutton; 4. Joy of Cooking; 5. Washington State University "Food from the Field" pamphlet; 6. Sunset Magazine; 7. Peashoots.com; 8. Melissa's Great Book of Produce by Cathy Thomas.}}

Never Mind: The Moratorium on Eating Cute Continues

Went to Carolyn-n-Will's the other night for some cookie-baking with their daughter Clara, and I mentioned to them that I might be finding myself weakening on the vegaquarianism, aka not eating things I find adorable for purely irrational emotional reasons, aka "Charlotte's Web really did a number on me." 

My little epiphany the other day about how much easier it is to prepare animal protein, combined with my partial immersion in the animal-protein-centric food world, was creating a small chink in my previously rock solid lack of a desire to eat meat. 

Then today I read this on the BBC website via Jezebel:

A piglet scared of wallowing in mud has overcome its fears with the help of some Wellington boots.

Painfully cute video included.

So, yeah right, Seaton.  Big talker.  I guess I'll stick with salmon for now, thanks.

More Vegetables, More Questions

I don't want to say this too loud.

Normally, any too-enthusiastic declaration of a new healthy habit usually jostles said healthy behavior right out of place.  It breaks off to roll under the couch, never to be seen again behind a dusty collection of diet coke bottles, single stick cigarette containers and empty pints of ice cream.

BUT...(come closer and I will whisper this in your ear) I think might be turning a corner with vegetables. 

Friday is the day that I get to see what is coming in my produce delivery and I spent a few happy minutes playing around with what was in my cart like...like I was shopping for summertime espadrilles or something.

And so today my bounty arrived:

 

Very exciting! 

Until I realized that every single item (other than the onions, lemons and pear) also came with its own opportunity to highlight how little context I have for fruits and vegetables.  (Oh, wait, I guess I don't have any questions for the rabe, because we've met, and I already know what I'm doing with the whole lot of it - yum!)

For example:

• Nantes Carrots: Soooo...what's your deal?  I put you on the list because if I have eaten you, I didn't pay attention. I think you are supposed to be sweeter than regular carrots, but so what?  I mean, like are you special and ergo should be saved for some kind of special carrot dish and would it be wasting your specialness to put you to work in a stock?  
• Kumquats: For serious, I am supposed to eat the whole thing?  I have before; why can't I accept that as correct?
• Kale: Crap, what am I going to do with you?  I mean, I have a ton of options, but what is the best way for me to make peace with your...kale-y-ness? I need some equivalent to the broccoli rabe bulgur recipe, a kale recipe that will make me fall madly in love with you right away. 
• Rhubarb: Do I even have time to deal with you this week?  How long will you last?  Are you going to force me to make a pie crust or will I just resort to a frozen dessert?
• Spinach: Ditto my comments for kale.  Also: are you going to make my stomach hurt? I went through a weird phase four years ago where spinach always made my stomach hurt, or at least appeared to.  Is it the oxalic acid?
  
• Avocado: Look, let's face it, you're going to be made into gelato.  But will I be able to discern just the correct ripeness in order to make this odd dessert as tasty as possible??

These, and other burning produce questions will be answered over the next few days, and I am hoping to have time to do a Getting-to-Know-You or two. 

For now, I'm going to go spend the next two hours washing vegetables, fretting about whether or not I should be washing them eat if I am not sure if I am going to be eating them soon, and/or distractedly paging through every reference book I have.  Thank goodness I'm only partially employed this week.

Getting to Know You: Sunburst Squash

AKA: Yellow Sunburst Squash, Pattypan Squash or Scallop Squash.  Pattypan Squash.  Pattypan Squash.  I think when the Tibetan Buddhists were reviewing candidates for a primary mantra, “Pattypan Squash” must have been on the short list before they decided upon Om Mani Padme Hum.  Just try to not feel benevolent and contented saying Pattypan Squash.  You can’t, can you?!

Appearance: Yellow and round with scalloped edges, a little green nub on one side and a bit of blossom scar on the other.  Generally small, about 2-4 inches.  Apparently also comes in green or white, although I assume those are just called Pattypan Squash (Pattypan Squash!  Pattypan Squash!) and not Sunburst.

(So deceptively adorable.  Do not believe it!)

Taste:  Erm.  Well, the people who like it say it tastes “mild and buttery” and “lighter and nuttier than zucchini.”  I say it tastes like zucchini with a wholly unpleasant bitter grapefruit type of flavor at the finish.

Growing Season/Area: In How to Pick a Peach, Russ Parsons says that while it’s known as summer squash, it’s actually more accurately considered a mild-weather crop that’s available throughout the year on a pretty consistent basis.  He also says that Florida, California and Georgia are the largest producers.

Buying: (Um, based on my experience, don’t.)  (But if you must.)  In How to Cook Everything, Mark Bittman says that you should pick the firmest ones possible, which usually means the smallest.  Avoid any that are dented, soft or bruised.  Plan for about 4-5 ounces per person, and 0 ounces per Leslie Seaton.

Storing: Store in a plastic bag (don’t wash yet) in crisper drawer and use ASAP.  Both Pioneer and Melissa's Organic say up to one week, but mine got brown very quickly (within a couple days).

Preparation:  Wash but do not peel.  Remove the stem and any of the scar on the opposite side.  When cooking, keep in mind that the size of the cut makes a big difference.  If you slice very thinly, it will melt into a rough puree consistency, so if you want more texture, keep the slices or dice thick.

Pairs well with:  Joy of Cooking says it’s great with “summer flavors like tomatoes, onions, peppers (sweet and chili), garlic, oregano, basil parsley, dill, rosemary, sage, and tarragon [as well as] lemon, cheese, butter, olive oil, capers."

Substitutions: Other summer squashes. I also read that it can be used to replace eggplant and carrots (although I would think it is much waterier than carrot so adjust recipes accordingly), and that very young squashes can be used in place of cucumber.

Nutrition:  Dr. Weil’s site says “Because [summer squash] is an unripe fruit, its nutritional value is unimpressive. It boasts fair amounts of carotenes, potassium and vitamin C.”

Recipe ideas:

• Sunburst Squash & Mushroom Soup (Recipe Result posted here.)
• Two-Skillet Pattypan Squash (Recipe Result posted here.)
• Sweet and Sour Pattypan Squash and Green Beans
• Summer Vegetable Ragout
• Corn, Pattypan Squash and Cheddar Flatbreads
• Indian-Spiced Grilled Baby Squash
• Use another vegetable and make something else.  In case you haven’t guessed it by now: I did not care for this veggie.

Getting to Know You: Broccoli Rabe

I received Broccoli Rabe in my produce delivery this week and I’m pretty sure I’ve never cooked it before.  So I needed to get to know this new veggie.

AKA: Broccoli Rabe apparently has outstanding warrants because it is also called Broccoli Raab or Rapini. Species: Brassica Rapa. 

Appearance: It has spiky leaves around a small bud which appears similar to a head of broccoli.  The bud sometimes blooms small yellow flowers, which are edible.

Taste: It’s got a bitter, mustardy, peppery flavor that might be why, according to the Food Network’s website, it has not been especially popular in the US (has been used more as animal fodder). It’s used more commonly in Italian cuisine.  While it’s associated with broccoli due to its appearance and name, it’s actually a lot like turnip greens. 

Growing Season/Area: It’s available all year, but the cold weather tempers its bitterness somewhat, so fall and winter might be the best time to enjoy it.  According to How to Pick a Peach by Russ Parsons, in the US, it mainly comes from the California, starting in the Imperial Valley in the fall and winter, moving north to Salinas in the summer.  Some is also imported from Mexico. 

Buying: Food Network says to look for thin stalks and avoid bunches showing a white core at the base of the stem.  Body + Soul says “Look for vibrant green leaves and plump stems; avoid bunches with yellowed leaves, flowering buds, or dry-ended stalks. Smaller-leaved plants are younger and therefore milder and more tender than larger-leaved specimens. And take a sniff; a "cabbage-y" smell is a clue they're past their prime.”

Storing: Most sources appear to agree that it should be stored in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer.  Russ Parsons says it’s sensitive and spoils quickly, so cook it the day you buy it.  Most others say you have about 4-5 days.  I couldn’t find any notes on whether this is one you can wash in advance or if it’s best to wait until you use it, so your guess is as good as mine. 

Preparation: You can eat the stalks of broccoli rabe, so you can just trim off the tough ends.  Joy of Cooking says you can treat the buds like broccoli, and the leaves like chard or kale.  It lends itself well to many styles of cooking like sautéing, braising, or steaming.  Body + Soul says that you can cut down the “bite” of the veggie by blanching it first.

Pairs well with:  Italian flavor profiles and components seem to go well with broccoli rabe: garlic, strong cheeses, red pepper flakes, pasta, etc.

Substitutions: Chinese broccoli, dandelion greens, Swiss chard, kale, mustard greens, fiddlehead fern, nettles, sorrel, turnip greens.

Nutrition:  According to Body + Soul:

The big news with broccoli rabe is its cancer-preventing potential. Like all Brassicas, it's a rich source of glucosinolates, which your body converts to cancer-fighting sulforophanes and indoles. Studies show that these compounds are particularly effective against stomach, lung, and colon cancers, and promising research hints at protective effects against breast and prostate cancers as well.

A 3 1/2-ounce serving of broccoli rabe provides more than half your daily requirement of antioxidant-rich vitamins A and C, both of which fight off dangerous free radicals that can cause damage to your body's cells.The bitter green is also a good source of folate (a B vitamin that protects against birth defects and heart disease), not to mention potassium, fiber, and calcium.

Recipe ideas:

• Spicy Broccoli Rabe with Pine Nuts
• Rabe with Garlic and  Pecorino Romano Cheese
• Garlicky Broccoli Rabe
• Broccoli Rabe with Bulgur and Walnuts (I made this - it's awesome!  More soon in a Recipe Result)